Insertion depth of staple in flat reed?

[bobblee001]

I know that in a concert pitch reeds a distance of around 30mm from tip of staple to reed lips is a good starting point. Is there a good measurement for a flat reed? The reed is for a C chanter 10mm head width, 120mm slip length, staple of around 48mm. Im aiming for an overall length of about 77mm and I know this would give me an insertion depth but I wondered if there was a rule of thumb lips to staple to tune back d. I would alter the other dimensions accordingly.


Thanks
Bob

[AlanB]

Hello,

I think the 30mm staple eye > reed lips is a fairly good starting point and adjust to suit, but if you reduce the length of the slip to about 100mm and lengthen the staple to between 50 - 52mm, then try working as staple > tail insertion depth starting at 18 - 20mm and adjust to suit, this way, you put less of a strain on the reed head trying to get the 30mm regardless of the insertion in to tail length. Also, the back D can be tuned (flattened) by reducing the staple eye a little and then inserting further in to the reed (sharpening 2nd 8ve in the process too, a bit..).

[The Blacksmith]

I just measured a reed for a Childress "B" chanter, the staple(2.250" length) was inserted 1" into the head.
The cane length was 2.030".

I have the rest of the Dims if you want them.

The fabricated reed plays nicely.

Tim

[bobblee001]

Thanks for that. Tim, I would love the rest of the dimensions if you wouldnt mind. Ive been working to the Geoff Woofe video over at npu source but all data most appreciated.

Thanks
Bob

[The Blacksmith]

All as measured from original reed.
LOA = 3.188"
Tubular Staple
Staple ID= .122"
Staple Od= .154"
Scrape length = .750"
Cane Length= 2.030"
Cane Width= .410"
Staple Length= 2.250"
Cane/staple overlap= 1"
Cane Taper =1" (straight taper shape)
Bridle= 4 turns copper wire

Sanding tube = 1.30" D (from the NPU reed making book)

I did not take the original reed apart, I used a staple eye of .053".
Even at that dimension, I had to bind the reed tightly and leave it for 2 days to get the sides to close up nicely.

I store my cane and slips at about 65% humidity. My workshop is very dry and if I start out with a more pliable slip, it ties easier to the staple.

Tim

[bobblee001]

Thats brilliant, thank you. By straight taper do you mean a taper from lips to binding?

Bob

[bobblee001]

A rough and ready reed made to those specs plays well in tune but a semitone flat overall. Inserting the reed deeper just sharpens back d. Help!!!!

Bob

[The Blacksmith]

Thats brilliant, thank you. By straight taper do you mean a taper from lips to binding?

Bob

No, sorry for the confusion.
By straight taper I mean from the 1" mark to the tail ( not concave sides)

Tim

[The Blacksmith]

A rough and ready reed made to those specs plays well in tune but a semitone flat overall. Inserting the reed deeper just sharpens back d. Help!!!!

Bob

Not sure,
The one I made was sharp overall, then I added another wrap of hemp and it moved into tune nicely.
It has only been played since Friday but appears to be behaving as it should.
I am making the reed for someone else, I normally play a "D" set.
This is the first time I have worked on a flat chanter.

What about taking the slightest sliver off the length ?

Tim

[The Blacksmith]

Bobblee, did you fix your reed problem ?

I measured the staple eye of the original reed with a taper feeler, it is .050"

Tim

[bobblee001]

I have shortened the head as you suggested. I also needed to withdraw the reed a little. This shapened it enough for me to live with for now. I dont want to meddle it any further until the weekend when I will make a batch of reeds up. I guess that means I need to insert the staple deeper to begin with. Ill try that and experiment with head width a little as well.
Thanks for all the pointers.

Bob