Binding Question

[The Blacksmith]

I have seen reeds made where the binding goes right to the end of the staple and some where the last 1/8" of the staple is exposed.
Is there a reason for this? , or just the style of the maker.

I find it easier to tie off the end of the binding with some of the staple still exposed.

Tim

[Ted]

It depends on the reed seat. Leaving the binding short of the end of the staple allows me to add a waxed hemp thread as a secondary binding to fit the reed into its' tapered seat. I use a larger or smaller amount of this second wrap to fill out the conical seat and to hold the reed in alignment as well as to hold the reed at the depth required for tuning.

[PJ]

It also depends on the type of staple. Rolled staples have a seam and sometimes the seam may not be airtight. In that case, the binding needs to go to the end to stop air leaking out.

[Ted]

Even with a rolled staple, a bit of wax in the seam will stop air leaks. The secondary wrap will also stop air leaks. Some times the staple must be inserted rather deepy into the chanter. Any wrap in the first 1/8" to 1/4" will not allow the reed to go deeply enough into the chanter. The secondary wrap must be placed higher on the staple to properly seat the reed. When I encounter a binding which goes all the way to the end of the staple, I often cut off a 1/4" off the binding and add a secondary wrap to fit, if the staple does not need to go very frar into the chanter. I use a rather thick binding so I stop a 1/4" or so from the end of the staple and add a secondary binding as a normal part of reed making.

[fancypiper]

I usually bind my reeds to 1/8" above the (rolled copper) staple eye, back down nearly all the way to the bottom of the staple (1/16"-1/8") and I place the bridle just above the wrap end. I use a slightly fan shaped head and try to get the reed to play in tune before placing the bridle. I shoot for the bridle doing very little if any work so just a "pinch" of the blades is needed to open or close the reed slightly, or you can adjust the bridle for a wider range of adjustment. I usually add/remove a bit of waxed linen thread to raise/lower the reed in the reed seat.

[The Blacksmith]

Thanks Guys,

I thought there might be some acoustic reason for leaving the end of the staple bare.

One chanter has a large diameter reed seat so I can do a fairly thick binding and it fits nicely but the other chanter is much smaller diameter and I can not get the reed low enough unless I have a very thin binding ( and bare section) on the end.

The thicker binding I do with a flat waxed aircraft rib stitch cord followed by a super strong polyester flat cord.(used for tying wire bundles together in aviation)
The thinner binding I do with just the rib stitch cord.
They both work well. (Teflon tape under both bindings)
I adjust the very end with waxed hemp or Teflon tape to get the reed in just the right position.

I very much agree with trying to get the reed in tune without the bridle and having it add as little stress as possible to the finished reed.

Tim

[PJ]

I would be wary of using teflon tape between the binding and the reed seat. Teflon tape shreds easily and when you adjust the reed, this will increase the chances of the teflon tape shredding. A wax coating on the binding is probably the best way to get the reed to sit securely in its seat.

[The Blacksmith]

I would be wary of using teflon tape between the binding and the reed seat. Teflon tape shreds easily and when you adjust the reed, this will increase the chances of the teflon tape shredding. A wax coating on the binding is probably the best way to get the reed to sit securely in its seat.

What type of wax do you use ? I find Coblers wax too sticky and bees wax not sticky enough.
I have had the Teflon tape shred (won't use it anymore).
Sometimes you need just a little more thickness but another wrap of hemp is too thick.

Tim

[fancypiper]

I use beeswax that comes from a jar of honey. That is stickier than what you buy in a craft shop which is mostly paraffin.

For a stickier wax, I melt together in a double boiler 1/3 cobbler's wax 2/3 beeswax and I place the resultant wax in a fold of scrap leather.

For reed binding, I use a waxed nylon that I bought from Nick Whitmer but he no longer sells this:

WAXED THREAD, NYLON - I no longer sell this.
This product is called beeswaxed Nyltex. Thickness is very approximately .030” (thirty thousandths of an inch). It is very strong. I use it for binding reeds, tieing in stocks, and as wrapping on tenons. It is sold in different colors, black, brown and white. Comes in 25 yard spools and in larger spools of 4 ounces, the latter probably a better buy.
Nyltex has been consistently listed on eBay for the past few years. Look for it there. Or some local shoe repair shops are willing to order it for you.. To adjust the reed up and down in the seat, I add/remove linen thread or dental floss. I avoid hemp as it tends to swell and shrink with humidity.

[The Blacksmith]

I just mixed up some of your 1/3 cobblers+ 2/3 beeswax, it works great.
Much stickier than cobblers wax and rubs on to the binding material more smoothly.


Thanks

Tim