I don't know whether this might help, but I find that the narrower measurement on the staple blank has a big effect on back D response and tuning. It tends to go hand in hand with the reed head width. With tubing staples, it's difficult to control the size/shape of the eye, as the narrowness of the eye affects the width too. To get the correct 'folding' of the reed head when you tie it up, the reedhead can't be too narrow as it either doesn't fold over the staple side or it imparts too much curvature/tension up the head and your reed then needs too much closure or it just cracks, or if the tail taper/shoulder is too narrow you get a stiff raucous reed. I think this is why people sometimes make really widereed heads (over 13mm), so they can easily tie on the reed (despite the pitfalls therein).
So, with rolled staples you have a slight cone for your area that you're going to taper that is also narrower than a tube staple, the resulting taper is narrower, and in general the eye shape is different. The tails need to be made a little narrower to accomodate this, and in turn the cane slip needs to be narrower to avoid a 'bottleneck' of tension when tying on.
An e.g. is my chanter, which is an O'Briain. It's modelled to work with Cillian's reed design, which is tube staple. Using the 'normal' Benedict staple measurements I had a bad toned D that was flat (and other anomalies, but gorgeous tone), when I brought the narrow end to 14.2, I achieved a much truer tuned D, but all in all I, unfortunately, can't really get a totally satisfactory rolled staple in my chanter, unless I practically roll a cylinder
Try dropping the width of your reed head to 12.2/12.3 (before tying and scraping)? (and the longer head).
