help needed for stuck reed cap

[Joseph E. Smith]

Since wax and string are both thermal insulators, I don't see them shrinking much in cold conditions.

I promise to never put your pipes, or any aspect of them in the fridge or freezer.

Have you ever put beeswax in the fridge? The effect is brittle beeswax. If it is beeswax that coats the threading, the "grip" is shattered, and thus the cap comes free. Wood will also shrink with lack of humidity, and that occurs in the fridge.

I have beaten my argument enough, sorry, I'll leave it alone now.

[billh]

I promise to never put your pipes, or any aspect of them in the fridge or freezer.

Thanks, I'll sleep better knowing that.

Have you ever put beeswax in the fridge? The effect is brittle beeswax. If it is beeswax that coats the threading, the "grip" is shattered, and thus the cap comes free. Wood will also shrink with lack of humidity, and that occurs in the fridge.

Sure. But as I said earlier, (of the wax or other sticky stuff):

While it _might_ become brittle enough to 'let go', so could the wood itself, or any other adhesives being used.

And if the wood dries out enough to shrink appreciably over such a short time period, well that's the other thing that makes me nervous.

All that said, it's the sort of thing you probably would get away with...

(the word probably being the issue)

best,

Bill

[Baen]

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions--it's greatly appreciated.

I haven't done anything yet, and still mulling over what the best solution is. One suggestion that I heard (off the board) was to use a blow dryer on very low heat, and apply it to the outside of the reed cap. I'm adding that to the other ideas mentioned here, and will eventually work up enough nerve to try something!

In terms of humidity levels, they've been in the 60%-70% range for the most part. The other morning we had close to 80%, but it was for a brief amount of time. We have a fairly mild climate here for the most part; nothing too extreme in terms of heat or humidity.

I'll let you know how all this turns out, once I choose something to try. I also want to contact the maker, and see if it's waxed cord underneath, or has a cork fitting.

[Evertjan 't Hart]

I have a wooden reed cap that is stuck on the chanter

Reading all the 'cool it down' suggestions I wander if you have missed that the reed cap is wood....
The walls of a wooden reed cap are normally thinner then the walls of the chanter so lowering the humidity by 'cooling it down' will have more effect on the dimensions of the reed cap and it will become even more stuck...
Bad advice lads.
Send it to the pipemaker is the best thing to do I think.

[Hans-Joerg]

I once had bought an old Goulding flute (boxwood, ivory trims) via ebay and noone could get it apart. The joints were stuck but you could twist them at least. I asked on a fluter´s board and got the advice that alcohol might work. So, I dripped some into the joint (about ten drops) and waited a few minutes before twisting. At the 4th or 5th attempt each joint came loose - fairly stiff still but undamaged at least. Obviously, the alcohol dissolved the beeswax.

You might try that with your chanter - holding it such that no alcohol can touch the reed-blades.

Good luck,
Hans

[Jim McGuire]

We are not talking about turning the chanter into a chanter icicle. My front door is difficult to open in the summer for a few days every year when the high temp (100F) and high humidity (80%) jams it. We are just trying to lower the humidity and free it up.

[Evertjan 't Hart]

We are not talking about turning the chanter into a chanter icicle. My front door is difficult to open in the summer for a few days every year when the high temp (100F) and high humidity (80%) jams it. We are just trying to lower the humidity and free it up.

The point I was trying to make is that both top and chanter are made of wood so humidity of both pieces will drop the same...
Maybe you're right, I never tried it.
But I've a few chanter prototypes laying around and I'll put one in fridge and will report what happens

[Jim McGuire]

The point I was trying to make is that both top and chanter are made of wood so humidity of both pieces will drop the same

We're trying to change the strength of the connection to the binding and the wood - not just shrink the wood. The first guy to tell me about the fridge was Alan Ginsberg in the late 1970s.

[Evertjan 't Hart]

I've tried it and there is shrinking and due to condense you end up with a very wet chanter.
The chanter was stored at 21C/65% humidity
I went for the extreme in the fridge it was -4C/45% humidity

Inserted the original reamer;
start at the bell 13 mm
after 15 minutes 12.7 mm
after 30 minutes 12.6 mm
after 45 minutes 12.54 mm

No visible damage after warming up

[Joseph E. Smith]

... so lowering the humidity by 'freezing' will have more effect on the dimensions of the reed cap and it will become even more stuck...
Bad advice lads.

Nobody said anything about freezing. For Pete's sake, do not freeze it, cool it down a bit. It should have no more damaging affect on the chanter/cap than taking your pipes (in their case) outside, down the street and to a session on a winter's night.

[PJ]

...taking your pipes (in their case) outside, down the street and to a session on a winter's night.

I've done this a few times and it always surprises me how bright my chanter sounds after.

[Evertjan 't Hart]

For Pete's sake, do not freeze it, cool it down a bit.

My *** hold your horses I've edited my original post, it reads now 'cool it down'. Happy now?

[Joseph E. Smith]

For Pete's sake, do not freeze it, cool it down a bit.

My *** hold your horses I've edited my original post, it reads now 'cool it down'. Happy now?

... I'm never happy, you ought to know that by now.

[PJ]

Sounds like you should both chill.

[Joseph E. Smith]

Sounds like you should both chill.

Don't push the envelope buddy.