help needed for stuck reed cap
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help needed for stuck reed cap
Hello all,
I have a wooden reed cap that is stuck on the chanter, and I've had no luck trying to gently wriggle it loose. Are there any tricks I can use to try and free it? If need be I'll take it to a shop, but it would be nice to be able to take care of it myself.
thanks for any suggestions,
Baen
I have a wooden reed cap that is stuck on the chanter, and I've had no luck trying to gently wriggle it loose. Are there any tricks I can use to try and free it? If need be I'll take it to a shop, but it would be nice to be able to take care of it myself.
thanks for any suggestions,
Baen
- Joseph E. Smith
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- billh
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I wouldn't advise that with a wooden cap... or a chanter, for that matter!Joseph E. Smith wrote:May not be good for the reed, but put the chanter in the refrigerator for 15 minutes to a 1/2 hour or so and then give it a go... easy does it.
Fridges are horrible environments for wood, weird humidity drops, condensing humidity when you take it out, etc. Also, whatever's sticking the cap on is likely to be harder at low temperature. While it _might_ become brittle enough to 'let go', so could the wood itself, or any other adhesives being used.
Bill
- Joseph E. Smith
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the amount of time it would be in there shouldn't affect the wood that much, I mean, it's not going to be there long enough, and I said refridgerator not freezer. Refridgerators shouldn't be that cold, between 40F -45F. The idea is to shrink the wrapping.
But, as you are the pipe maker and I am not, I will defer to your advisory.
But, as you are the pipe maker and I am not, I will defer to your advisory.
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I would suggest heat (warmth) rather than cold. There is a good chance that the wrapping thread was waxed and this has set sticking the joint.
Try wrapping a polishing cloth around the joint and 'polish' until it gets warm that should melt the wax and release the joint. I would not wiggle the joint cold as that may crack the windcap wood.
When its off re-wrap the joint with fresh hemp, cotton etc. with no wax or a softer oilier wax. I use the red cheese covering wax as that stays 'oily' and does not set. (recommended by Andreas Rogge)
Good luck
Try wrapping a polishing cloth around the joint and 'polish' until it gets warm that should melt the wax and release the joint. I would not wiggle the joint cold as that may crack the windcap wood.
When its off re-wrap the joint with fresh hemp, cotton etc. with no wax or a softer oilier wax. I use the red cheese covering wax as that stays 'oily' and does not set. (recommended by Andreas Rogge)
Good luck
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How's the weather in N. California at the moment? Temp and humidity could be what is causing the wood to expand and stick. Try leaving your chanter for a day or two in the basement or in an air-conditioned room where the temperature and humidity are lower.
If that doesn't work, my next suggestion would be this.
If that doesn't work, my next suggestion would be this.
PJ
- Joseph E. Smith
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... or a sufficient amount of high explosives... say... C-4?PJ wrote:
If that doesn't work, my next suggestion would be this.
- vanfleet
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refrigerator repairs
Joe wrote:
Worked like a charm, the parts slid apart without damage. Of course, no reeds were involved . . . you may need to take care of condensation issues once you have the reed cap off.
Good luck any way you proceed.
JVF
I recently had the stock stuck tight in the stock cup, could not move it with an oil filter wrench and two strong guys yanking on the thing. Seth Gallagher advised *against* heat, and suggested sticking it in the refrigerator for an hour or so.May not be good for the reed, but put the chanter in the refrigerator for 15 minutes to a 1/2 hour or so and then give it a go... easy does it.
Worked like a charm, the parts slid apart without damage. Of course, no reeds were involved . . . you may need to take care of condensation issues once you have the reed cap off.
Good luck any way you proceed.
JVF
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[quote="Bill"]Since wax and string are both thermal insulators, I don't see them shrinking much in cold conditions.[/quote}
I promise to never put your pipes, or any aspect of them in the fridge or freezer.
Have you ever put beeswax in the fridge? The effect is brittle beeswax. If it is beeswax that coats the threading, the "grip" is shattered, and thus the cap comes free. Wood will also shrink with lack of humidity, and that occurs in the fridge.
I have beaten my argument enough, sorry, I'll leave it alone now.
I promise to never put your pipes, or any aspect of them in the fridge or freezer.
Have you ever put beeswax in the fridge? The effect is brittle beeswax. If it is beeswax that coats the threading, the "grip" is shattered, and thus the cap comes free. Wood will also shrink with lack of humidity, and that occurs in the fridge.
I have beaten my argument enough, sorry, I'll leave it alone now.
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stuck
billh wrote:
Heating will expand both, and maybe the difference is less?
Hoping Baen will post his results for us . . .
JVF
It makes an interesting physics question. My assumption, after it worked for me, was that the wood contracted more than the metal, when the fridge dried it and chilled it.The metal will expand more than the timber. I'd expect the metal stock cup to conduct the cold more rapidly and thus grip the stock harder than ever. Since wax and string are both thermal insulators, I don't see them shrinking much in cold conditions.
Heating will expand both, and maybe the difference is less?
Hoping Baen will post his results for us . . .
JVF