cutting keyways

ausdag · Post by **ausdag** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 2:52 pm

I watched Malcolm McLaren make a chanter the other day. He just centred the chanter between stocks on the metal lathe and attached an ordinary power drill to the cutter dial thingy (the drill had a make-shift brace attached to it so it could be held in the 'cutter dial thingy'). Turned drill on low and locked it to on - Done - nice.

DavidG

Joseph E. Smith · Post by **Joseph E. Smith** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 2:57 pm

I was watching a recently acquired DVD of Eugene Lambe making pipes. Says I to myself I says: "Frickin Cool, man... frickin' bloody cool".

ausdag · Post by **ausdag** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 2:59 pm

Wassat DVD you speakin' of there Joseph? Mr Lambe made my drones. Would be interesting to see him at work.

DavidG

Joseph E. Smith · Post by **Joseph E. Smith** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 3:05 pm

I am currently in the process of reeding a Lambe concert pitched chanter myself. I suggest you contact Mr. Chris Bayley for the DVD in question. It doesn't go into any great detail re: pipe making, but there are a few nice scenes depicting the "process" provided, in addition to a couple of nice visual samples of Dan O'Dowd, himself, pipering.

John Mulhern · Post by **John Mulhern** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:05 pm

Is there any advantage to choosing a 2 fluted bit verses 4 flutes?

Probably you'd never notice the difference between them...but I'd go with the 2 fl. anyway, if only for the better swarf clearing ability. I've had 2 flutes run forever profiling 2" thick aluminum plate...4 flutes would snap in moments due to poor chip evacuation. As Bill & Kevin suggested, it might be prudent to cut it to depth in a series of roughing passes. Since the lathe bed has flat ways, I wonder if a couple of small "v" tipped machinist jacks would fit under your workpiece & help dampen any chatter???

(or equivalent)
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAK ... TPG=INLMK3

uillmann · Post by **uillmann** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:50 pm

The boxwood (buxus sempervirens) chanter in the picture is a few months old, and has been oiled with linseed oil. The lathe is a Myford super 7, and the quick change fordom handpiece holder is made from a bored out 1" coupling nut with a piece of 1/2 inch square stock welded to the side. I've used the razor saw and chisel method, the Copeland non-rotating blade method, and have cut slots on the milling machine, but this quick change setup is the fastest and most elegant I've tried.

CJ DIXON · Post by **CJ DIXON** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 11:16 pm

I use the same setup as Uillmann does for cutting keyways and drilling toneholes with my high speed rotary tool mounted using a jig I made and attached to the toolpost. This is very nice as it is quick, easy and guarantees perfect alignment.

Cheers,
CJ

Kevin Popejoy · Post by **Kevin Popejoy** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:01 am

This thread is a bit stale but I found some pics of my setup, such as it is. Not much to it really but the results are excellent. I'll let the photos do the rest. Just click on the thumbnail if you want to see a larger image.

Basic set up for cutting keyway:

Closeup of cutter in position:

Plunge router slides on metal rails:

Rotated perpendicular for cutting key seat:

Hope that's helpful.

Kevin

Cayden · Post by **Cayden** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:37 am

I have found some piceleens too: the old hacksaw, chisel and mallet hammer approach

Works fine.

Douglas · Post by **Douglas** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:54 am

Geoff Wooff makes excellent pipes. Probably my favorite. If he can do it that way, it must be good.