Leather Flap/Valve Chatter... How do you fix it?
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Leather Flap/Valve Chatter... How do you fix it?
Gentlemen (And I fully expect some of you to take exception to that phrase),
I had to replace a leather flap going into the bag... the one that keeps air from going back through the airhose and into the bellows. Works great, but when pulling the bellows open, I get a loud chattering noise as the leather flap bounces on the rim. I've experimented with four different leathers, thicknesses, etc. to no avail. What's the secret to a good, quiet seal?
Bob
I had to replace a leather flap going into the bag... the one that keeps air from going back through the airhose and into the bellows. Works great, but when pulling the bellows open, I get a loud chattering noise as the leather flap bounces on the rim. I've experimented with four different leathers, thicknesses, etc. to no avail. What's the secret to a good, quiet seal?
Bob
- djm
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Just a guess, here, but you have to make sure that the valve is hanging straight down (hinge at the top). If you wear your bellows at a slant and the flap is not hanging down properly you can get a bit of chatter or snorting sometimes from the valve.
djm
djm
I'd rather be atop the foothills than beneath them.
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Re: Leather Flap/Valve Chatter... How do you fix it?
Press the blowpipe end into the leather so there's a permanent indentation formed on the smooth side. Glue a second piece of heavy round leather on top of the soft leather that has the hinge. I vaguely remember one time having to score the hinge because the only leather I had availlable was too thick. Make sure the hinge is on top so the flap is hanging down.noshinchan wrote:Gentlemen (And I fully expect some of you to take exception to that phrase),
I had to replace a leather flap going into the bag... the one that keeps air from going back through the airhose and into the bellows. Works great, but when pulling the bellows open, I get a loud chattering noise as the leather flap bounces on the rim. I've experimented with four different leathers, thicknesses, etc. to no avail. What's the secret to a good, quiet seal?
Bob
Eric
- Joseph E. Smith
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Yes, it and teflon tape (the other 'plumber's friend') are a must in my pipe case!SWLogan wrote:I had the same problem and simply placed a small blob of blutack on the the valve to give it a bit more weight. I had a set of Ray Sloan smallpipes which had a lead pellet (cut in half) that he'd glued to the same valve for the same reason. Blutack covers a multitude of sins.
- fancypiper
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I don't experience that when I play, only if I lay my bag down partially inflated, so make sure the flap is hanging down in the playing position when you insert the blowpipe into the bag.
That's part of the charm of the pipes! I lay them down and pretend to beat it with my low whistle while it growls at me. It never fails to get a laugh from the audience.
You can use this Silicone check valve that looks like it would be sure to cure it.
That's part of the charm of the pipes! I lay them down and pretend to beat it with my low whistle while it growls at me. It never fails to get a laugh from the audience.
You can use this Silicone check valve that looks like it would be sure to cure it.
- CJ DIXON
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Hi Bob,
I have seen this before. As mentioned above, adding some weight to it will solve the problem. Glueing a thicker leather or a small washer will cure this.
All the best,
CJ
I have seen this before. As mentioned above, adding some weight to it will solve the problem. Glueing a thicker leather or a small washer will cure this.
All the best,
CJ
CJ Dixon Celtic Instruments
www.cjdixon.com
www.cjdixon.com
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Hi, Rick. Just moved to Maryville in November. I thought about breaking away for the January shindig, but couldn't justify the time at the time. Sadly, I'm not at the level of getting together for a tune yet. Just for advice, questions about ornamentation, etc., which I'd be happy to do, or just to bring a whistle, sit in the corner, and try to learn a few tunes.
I've been drawn into the piping world by the Kenny G of pipes, Mr. Davy Spillane, and so have been learning new-age orchestral, sentimental bosh so far, though I did get in 30 minutes with Heather Clarke this morning!!
I've been drawn into the piping world by the Kenny G of pipes, Mr. Davy Spillane, and so have been learning new-age orchestral, sentimental bosh so far, though I did get in 30 minutes with Heather Clarke this morning!!
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I replaced my conventional leather clack valve (the one in the blowpipe stock of the bag) for the same type that GHB'ers use. That is the "little mac" valve. It only required a small alteration to the blow pipe. On my set it meant slightly reaming out the bore of the blow pipe. I then had to shorten the "little mac" valve with a junior hacksaw by about an 1/8 ins (about 3mm) as it was touching the opposite side of the bag when it was deflated.
The "little mac" is tapered so I fixed in place with thread and beeswax. The cost is minimal and it works perfectly and there is no escape of air back into the bellows. It has been in place about 3 months now and gives me no trouble. In fact I can honsetly state that my pipes are now more "air efficient" than before I carried out this simple and cheap modification.
I am now considering changing the clack valve on my bellows for the same type but instead of the "little mac" I'll probably use the "big mac" because of the size of the apperture in my bellows. I see no reason why this also should not be a success although I have not given it a great deal of thought and there may be technical reasons why it may not work. However, because the cost is virtually nought I'll give it a go once I purchase a "big mac" valve.
It's worth doing the conversion to your bag stock guys especially if you want rid of the "farting" clack valve as the "little mac" is completely silent.
Joseph (the UK one).
The "little mac" is tapered so I fixed in place with thread and beeswax. The cost is minimal and it works perfectly and there is no escape of air back into the bellows. It has been in place about 3 months now and gives me no trouble. In fact I can honsetly state that my pipes are now more "air efficient" than before I carried out this simple and cheap modification.
I am now considering changing the clack valve on my bellows for the same type but instead of the "little mac" I'll probably use the "big mac" because of the size of the apperture in my bellows. I see no reason why this also should not be a success although I have not given it a great deal of thought and there may be technical reasons why it may not work. However, because the cost is virtually nought I'll give it a go once I purchase a "big mac" valve.
It's worth doing the conversion to your bag stock guys especially if you want rid of the "farting" clack valve as the "little mac" is completely silent.
Joseph (the UK one).
- Joseph E. Smith
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I've thought about using the little mack from my GHB, but it wouldn't fit, and I didn't have the heart to alter the stock. But they are a great little item for this purpose.wharfedalecarving wrote:It's worth doing the conversion to your bag stock guys especially if you want rid of the "farting" clack valve as the "little mac" is completely silent.
Joseph (the UK one).
- No E
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Silicone check valves work nicely, and eliminate rude noises (from the valve at least).fancypiper wrote:...You can use this Silicone check valve that looks like it would be sure to cure it.
No E