New headjoint for an antique flute: worth it?

[Hup]

I've had an antique 8-key flute for about a week.
It's turning out to be pretty good flute - pretty loud
down to F# despite a narrow bore and smallish holes.

It reminds me of the Watson flute I used to have, but
it's not as good - mainly because it's less even in response
across its range. You can sort of feel the uneven air flow.

So now I'm wondering if a modern headjoint would take
it to another level.

Is that worth doing? Is it expensive?

I know from my clarinet days, a new mouthpiece
makes a huge difference - one way or the other. Maybe the
same for flute headjoints ?

[kkrell]

Yes, a new headjoint may help. Best to get the flute evaluated by a flutemaker, or find compatible headjoints to swap (if they'll fit).

Yes, it can be expensive. Chris Abell offers add-on traditional headjoints for USD $1,000, plus $250 if you need a barrel. Other makers might sell a keyless flute complete with headjoint and slide near that price range, but that's probably according to their usual specs, which may or may not be appropriate in length and fit for your requirements.

It's also possible that a flutemaker could improve the response of your current flute or its headjoint at a more reasonable cost.

[plunk111]

I used to have a William Hall that was a great player any had John Gallagher make a new headjoint for it. Made a big difference! I think it was around $700 (but that was a while ago!). You might want to check with him.

Pat

[LorenzoFlute]

Yes, about 3 years ago I had a new headjoint for my antique flute made by Sam Murray, it was a completely different animal! I payed something like 350 euros barrel included. There's no reason why the headjoint should cost more than an entire flute. Making one is quite simple, it's just a cylindrical tube with a hole after all, extra money if you want silver tube and screw endcap, but...

[Caspermilktoast]

I have an old flute (1860's) with an Olwell headjoint. It is the nicest flute I have ever played. I don't know what the original headjoint was like, but this one is really nice.

[highwood]

Making one is quite simple, it's just a cylindrical tube with a hole after all

spoken by someone who has I'm guessing never made one.

For example look at http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/fluteslide.html and consider that the 'simple cylindrical tube' will need to be matched to the body so may not (probably will not) match the maker's 'normal' head joint.

[Holmes]

Hello

Try before you buy...(?) Try another head joint (including barrel) on the flute (we've all done it), at least this may give some perspective on the possibility of improvement. I wouldn't recommend doing this at the tuning slide unless you have experience.

It does have risks but if you select a head and barrel that are slightly oversize, then fit it to your flute, if it is slack then make it up with plumbers tape (PTFE). This often provides surprising results in terms of flute performance.

Yes the tuning will be disturbed, the tenon lengths won't match etc but it may well provide the information you are looking for. When you are done remove the tape and put everything back into it's rightful place.

The head is the most important element of the flute so there will be marked differences.

H
https://soundcloud.com/holmesflute/sets/holmes-flute

[Steampacket]

"Yes, about 3 years ago I had a new headjoint for my antique flute made by Sam Murray, it was a completely different animal! I payed something like 350 euros barrel included." Lorenzo

"I used to have a William Hall that was a great player any had John Gallagher make a new headjoint for it. Made a big difference!" plunk111

"I have an old flute (1860's) with an Olwell headjoint. It is the nicest flute I have ever played. I don't know what the original headjoint was like, but this one is really nice." caspermilktoast

Works the other way round too. Putting a vintage head joint on a modern simple system flute body can produce interesting results. I often use a Rudall & Rose patent head & barrel on my Olwell Pratten as I like the sound I get better. Nothing wrong with the original Olwell head joint and barrel, but the Rudall head has more interesting tonal qualities I think. Seems to suit the way I blow. The two patent heads I have fit snugly on the Olwell, not so on the Wilkes which has a smaller bore. I can try tape as Norman mentioned and see what happens

[tin tin]

Another maker to consider: A friend recently got a new headjoint made by Chris Norman, and it's fabulous. http://chrisnorman.com/flutes-made
I assume you're happy with the flute's scale? Because the hj can't do very much to correct the intonation.

[Hup]

Not sure about the scale yet. Low D is flat, but that is normal apparently. It is also pretty finicky; not the worst low D but not as good as Olwell, Watson or Reviol

[Jon C.]

Not sure about the scale yet. Low D is flat, but that is normal apparently. It is also pretty finicky; not the worst low D but not as good as Olwell, Watson or Reviol

That is probably due to a leak somewhere in the flute, small crack under the keys, or leaky pads. Most of the time it is the Cnat key or Bb that is leaking, that will ruin the bottom end of the flute.
Since Terry McGee is right around the corner from you, you should see if he can make a head joint.

[LorenzoFlute]

Not sure about the scale yet. Low D is flat, but that is normal apparently. It is also pretty finicky; not the worst low D but not as good as Olwell, Watson or Reviol

That is probably due to a leak somewhere in the flute, small crack under the keys, or leaky pads. Most of the time it is the Cnat key or Bb that is leaking, that will ruin the bottom end of the flute.

I've see VERY often that the leak comes from the tenons if they are threaded. Try to melt some beeswax on them

[Hup]

Thank Jon and Lorenzo. Jon you apparently did a bit of work on this flute, according the previous owner.

BTW, I attached a Reviol head with copious amts of plumbers tape and the sound was a bit stronger and clearer.

[Jon C.]

Thank Jon and Lorenzo. Jon you apparently did a bit of work on this flute, according the previous owner.

BTW, I attached a Reviol head with copious amts of plumbers tape and the sound was a bit stronger and clearer.

Can you post a photo of the flute, maybe I would remember it. Check the suction on head joint, to make sure it hasn't developed any leaks. Sometimes when the repaired cracks go through the embouchure hole, they develop leaks when the wood moves. A leak in the liner, will ruin the bottom end of the flute.

[Hup]

Funny how the colour changes; in real life it is red/brown, not black.