Joint Preference?

[brokish]

[jemtheflute]

I think perhaps you should have said "thread" in your options - not all threads are cotton and this thread ( ) will now doubtless divert into a discussion of the dis/advantages of various materials - cotton (waxed or not), silk, flax/linen, synthetics......

I have voted for "cotton", but have no major objection to cork - actually, I'd go with what the lapping bed on the flute's tenons was designed for - if it is ridged/"combed", one ought to use thread as that was the maker's intention/expectation; if it is smooth, it was meant for cork.

[Denny]

no option for "bomber"

[crookedtune]

No Denny. If ZigZag was meant to be a choice, it would have been listed.

[Casey Burns]

Linen and Nylon is a better choice than cotton.

The problem with cork is that this requires a professional to adjust it when it becomes too loose or too tight. It also requires more reinforcement or thickness at the sockets. I'd rather folks be able to adjust the flute themselves which is why I go with nylon thread. User friendly.

[Holmes]

If you were to buy a clarinet or oboe, say for over £10,000 apiece, they'd invariably have cork as a tenon seal.

H
http://www.box.net/shared/fb97k2ndig

[LorenzoFlute]

Cork, thread always moves away from his position, and I don't like dealing with it...

[Cubitt]

I have two flutes for many, many years and after wrestling with the thread on both, had them both corked. My eight-key was always cork and has never needed attention. I much prefer the cork.

[groxburgh]

Hemp is the best stuff for joints.

[Unseen122]

... - actually, I'd go with what the lapping bed on the flute's tenons was designed for - if it is ridged/"combed", one ought to use thread as that was the maker's intention/expectation; if it is smooth, it was meant for cork.

With all due respect Jem; I don't think that is always the case. The cork on my Martin Doyle flute fell off a couple years ago and the tenon is combed underneath. It also says on Terry McGee's site that his flutes come with cork joints but under the cork the tenon is combed if thread is preferred, something along those lines.

I am more of a cork man myself as it is much more stable. As I said the cork fell off of my Doyle flute and since this is my only D flute at the moment I have not sent it to be re-corked. I have obviously been using thread, which I find doesn't always seal properly until it gets a bit of moisture.

[Dominic Allan]

All modern woodwinds have combed tenons and are corked (ok someone will find an exception!)
I prefer cork but thread is better if the instrument is kept assembled for long periods ie: bagpipe tuning slides.
I like the look of thread on R+R type flutes , it just looks right to me.
I use cobblers thread, it's called "yellow hemp" in the piping world, comes in other colours too.

[eilam]

i like threads, for the ability to change the fit and looks as well.

[Maihcol]

One is as good as the other if you treat them both decently. Preference may largely depend on which you have become used to. I used to prefer cork until I started using thread on both my flutes and whistles, on the basis that it's readily available and can be more easily adjusted to tighten or loosen a joint - or completely replaced - by the average flute/whistle owner. But in general, I'd be happy with either.

Garry

[Jon C.]

I would say thread on the antique flutes, as it helps support the tenons. Cork is fine if the the socket can support it, some antique flute makers like Monzani lined the sockets with silver, to support cork. One problem that happens with cork, the over zealous flute oiler, will slop a lot of oil on the cork tenon and loosen the glue that holds on the cork.
The down side of thread, if it is wound to tight, it can cause distortion in the bore at the tenons.

[chas]

I have a strong preference for cork. I've played woodwinds for decades, and the only problem I've ever had with cork was a plastic Bundy clarinet when I was a kid. My band teacher repaired a cork, then it promptly fell off and had to be repaired again. I have a Cameron traverso with extremely thin cork; I suspect this was designed to have thread, which would be more appropriate.

The thing about cork is that it's forgiving. No need to take a little off when it's damp and add a little when it's dry. The cork basically does this for you. I have cork on a few boxwood flutes (the king of damp vs dry), and it's never been a problem.

I did have one flute that became loose after a couple of years. Per the maker's instructions, I just gently heated the cork with a match, and it was fine after that.