lube for the tuning slide

gcollins · Post by **gcollins** » Thu Jun 27, 2002 7:25 pm

Good conversation, and one I've been wondering about. I use regular cork grease on my Wilkes headjoint but I find the slide does not move quite as well as before I put it on.

Maybe I'll try just cleaning it all off.

For the keys and oiling...I put wax paper under the pads of the keys during oiling, and once every six months or so, I take all the keys off. But that's only because I have the world's coolest Rudall and Rose with the Nicholson snake skin thumb rest.

Loren · Post by **Loren** » Thu Jun 27, 2002 8:51 pm

Wilkes head, Rudall body, Nicholson Sharkskin......what sort of Frankenflute did Migoya sell you anyway???

Did you really put grease on your tuning slide? Duuude.......

Loren

eubiedubie · Post by **eubiedubie** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 4:47 am

You can make your own tuning grease by melting together candle wax and vasoline.Some flutes like Copley,Schultz and Ormistons require tuning grease.

Loren · Post by **Loren** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 5:57 am

I should say my comments regarding slide greasing were made with Silver Tuning slides in mind. Brass seems more often than not to recquire some greasing (per the makers specs) as does Nickel frequently.

So.....My initial comments were not entirely accurate either, since I am taking a somewhat narrow view of slide materials based on a personal preference for silver. My apologies.

Guess it's all back to check with the maker then, isn't it?

Loren

ChrisA · Post by **ChrisA** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 11:40 am

Another random question... has anybody ever thought of and/or tried using a dry lubricant? (Some sort of graphite...)

That seems likely to avoid the problems of attracting dirt, although if your slide already slides easily it might make it -too- slippery... but if you had a greaseless slide that was too tight, or that you wanted not to bind during long storage, perhaps it would be useful?

--Chris

Loren · Post by **Loren** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 11:51 am

Chris,

Geeze man, hasn't it become apparent by now that none of us have any idea what we're talking about? Give up already man

At this point I'm ready to weld my slide in place....Umm, could we talk about which oil to use or something now?

Loren

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Loren on 2002-06-28 13:52 ]</font>

rhodeirish · Post by **rhodeirish** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 12:05 pm

Generally, you should not grease metal-on-metal tuning slides. If the maker is any good, the connection should be snug and secure.

My teacher told me a story about a fellow who played a fife he made (also a metal-on-metal connection) and this customer insisted on greasing the metal tuning slide, despite my teacher's recommendations.

Well, this chap marched in a fife and drum corps, which very often means swinging your arms in an exagerated manner while holding the fife. So, this fellow is marching with his corps in the local 4th of July parade and in the course of swinging his arms, the headjoint popped off the fife body and went sailing off into the crowd. I don't know if he recovered it or not, but I doubt he ever greased his metal tuning slide again.

Take care,
John Harvey

dcopley · Post by **dcopley** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 12:45 pm

The design of the flute has some influence on whether or not the tuning slide should be greased. In Boehm system flutes and many wooden flutes, the outer surface of the inner tube is exposed when the slide is extended. It is not wise to use grease on a flute of this type, as the exposed grease could pick up dirt or grit.

For wooden flutes I prefer the design in which the barrel liner extends beyond the wood of the barrel joint, and slides into a recess in the head joint. In this case, the inside tube is not exposed, so there is greatly reduced chance of contamination. It is then the maker's choice whether to go for a dry fit, or to fit the joint slightly looser to allow for lubrication. I prefer the lubricated joint, but either one will work. I am still a little uneasy about dry joints because of the possibility of corrosion and stuck tuning slides, though this is less likely if the slide is silver.

Dave Copley
Loveland, Ohio

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dcopley on 2002-06-28 14:48 ]</font>

Loren · Post by **Loren** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 1:14 pm

I will say that the lubed brass slide on my.....er, my former Copley, is the smoothest flute slide I've yet come across - smoother than the M&E, Healy, and Olwell. I didn't mess with the tuning slides on the Grinter, Hamilton, and other flutes I've tried, so I can't comment there, however Dave Copley's slides sure work well.

The main disadvantage I see to dry slides is that if you do oil on them while oiling your flute it can be a serious PITA. For example: I got a tiny bit of Almond oil on the Olwell's slide while oiling the flute. The slide is now a bit more difficult to move, and not as smooth, despite my best efforts to clean the slide. I think some of the almond oil residue is on a part of the slide I can't reach.

Loren

ChrisA · Post by **ChrisA** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 2:54 pm

On 2002-06-28 13:51, Loren wrote:
Chris,

Geeze man, hasn't it become apparent by now that none of us have any idea what we're talking about? Give up already man

Then I must have known even less than nothing, 'cause I seem to have learned some things from this thread.

--Chris

gcollins · Post by **gcollins** » Fri Jun 28, 2002 6:43 pm

On 2002-06-27 22:51, Loren wrote:
Wilkes head, Rudall body, Nicholson Sharkskin......what sort of Frankenflute did Migoya sell you anyway???

Did you really put grease on your tuning slide? Duuude.......

Loren

Frankenflute? Masterflute! Too bad the flute is 150 years more experienced than me. It is a class above me. Especially with the patent head (which is out of tune, unlike the Wilkes head).

I did put grease on the tuning slide, but I don't like it.

rhodeirish · Post by **rhodeirish** » Mon Jul 01, 2002 9:20 am

Dave makes a good point. If you have a dry metal-on-metal connection, it's not wise to leave your flute assembled for long periods of time. I've seen a few older flutes where the connection has become basically welded together. It's very unlikely to happen with silver...but I wouldn't want to be the one to beat the odds.

John Harvey

theweirdscotsman · Post by **theweirdscotsman** » Sun Sep 08, 2002 9:29 am

Has anyone ever tried putting teflon tape on the joints? On the highland pipes, most people put it on the drones, and if you turn them clockwise, it moves them down, and if you tune counter-clockwise they go up.

fluter_d · Post by **fluter_d** » Sun Sep 08, 2002 2:23 pm

If by Teflon tape, you mean plumbers' tape, then yes! Anytime the joints're loose, or cork starts to disintegrate, the tape comes out. It works fine as long as you're careful - sometimes, the cork/thread UNDER the tape gets damp & expands, & then it can be difficult to undo the joint - so just check regularly to make sure you'll be able to get the flute apart!
Deirdre

gwgtaylor · Post by **gwgtaylor** » Sun Jun 25, 2023 4:05 pm

[Thread revival. - Mod]

So both Copley & Boegli and Windward recommend slide grease for tuning slide. Agree with the comment about storing flute with slide mated means you should grease it. If you’re good about cleaning your flute and occasionally replacing the grease, your slide will not bind or seize up. I know Patrick Olwell recommends no grease but I think he is in the minority on this topic.

Chiff and Fipple Forums

lube for the tuning slide

Re: lube for the tuning slide