glue for keypads

[Jon C.]

No problem dude, just remember, less is more with Micro: This stuff works (hardens) by evaporation - the alcohol or whatever it is that is mixed in with the micro shellac, is what keeps it from hardening in the tube, and subsequent exposure to air evaporates the alcohol allowing the shellac to harden.

This is why using too much is a problem, the more you use the longer it takes to dry, particularly at the bottom of a cup, under a pad. Many woodwind repair don't like Micro because they haven't gotten hip to this, they simply plop a big blob in the cup, drop in the pad, with shellac oozing out everywhere, and wipe of the excess - wrong approach!! Use less than you think you need, I mean really. When dry the stuff is plenty strong for normal duty, so just a little dab'll do ya.

Loren

That is why I use the shellac flakes, I can fill the cup up with the stuff, heat the key over a flame and drop the pad into the goo, then fit it on the flute while it is still soft. It hardens in about a minute. This also works for re-attaching a lip plate, and the melted shellac fills in the voids around the lip plate. I have used sealing wax on the flat leather pads also. I guess I am just retro...

[Loren]

Plenty of ways to approach the task, all valid. Personally, I prefer to avoid heating the metal bits little as I can get away with, to avoid inadvertant annealing, and lacquer burnoff (on those keys/parts that happen to be lacquered.) Easier for someone with experience to avoid those potential problems when heating, which is why I suggest the Micro for those without much repadding experience.

Also, it avoids having to rush to get the keywork reassembled. Again, perhaps not a problem for you and me, but axles and keys tend to get bent when the relatively inexperienced home repairers feel the need to rush. Heck, axles and keys tend to get bent when I feel the need to rush

That said, I'm not knocking flakes, or stick shellac, one bit - both are good stuff, and I certainly perfer one or the other depending on the job, although each will suffice regardless. As well, I do think that flakes and stick tend to provide a more "bombproof" final holding power, which is good. On the down side, getting the darn stuff out of keycups can be a PITA, in those rare cases you need to do so without heating the cup.

Either way, it's all good, and I'm not trying to discourage anyone one from having a go at methods other than Micro, just wanted to offer up another alternative.

Loren

[Kevin Popejoy]

That is why I use the shellac flakes, I can fill the cup up with the stuff, heat the key over a flame and drop the pad into the goo, then fit it on the flute while it is still soft. It hardens in about a minute.

Hey Jon,

Here's a twist on the pad floating method. I melt a bit of shellac onto the cup, allow it to cool and mount the key with the pad in place. I then use a soldering iron, one that's never been used for actual soldering of course, to heat the back of the cup thus melting the shellac and floating the pad in place. No rush, no open flame, very simple.

Kevin

[Loren]

Yup, that's a good one Kevin.

Loren

[Jon C.]

That is why I use the shellac flakes, I can fill the cup up with the stuff, heat the key over a flame and drop the pad into the goo, then fit it on the flute while it is still soft. It hardens in about a minute.

Hey Jon,

Here's a twist on the pad floating method. I melt a bit of shellac onto the cup, allow it to cool and mount the key with the pad in place. I then use a soldering iron, one that's never been used for actual soldering of course, to heat the back of the cup thus melting the shellac and floating the pad in place. No rush, no open flame, very simple.

Kevin

Hi Kevin,
That is a good technique. I heard about that on the flutemakers group, I haven't tryed it yet. I do have a nice Weller soldering station that would work nice for that. The open flame is more fun though, except for the 2nd degree burns...

[Chiffed]

That is why I use the shellac flakes, I can fill the cup up with the stuff, heat the key over a flame and drop the pad into the goo, then fit it on the flute while it is still soft. It hardens in about a minute.

Hey Jon,

Here's a twist on the pad floating method. I melt a bit of shellac onto the cup, allow it to cool and mount the key with the pad in place. I then use a soldering iron, one that's never been used for actual soldering of course, to heat the back of the cup thus melting the shellac and floating the pad in place. No rush, no open flame, very simple.

Kevin

I wonder how those new magnetic induction soldering irons would work? I'm tempted...

[peeplj]

Folks, be careful with the soldering iron / gun.

An open flame is a relatively cool heat, and not likely to damage anything.

The heat from a soldering iron can get quite intense and may not heat the key cup evenly (unless perhaps you flux it first).

I'm not saying that's it's not a good idea...but I would use a lot of caution.

--James

[Jon C.]

That is why I use the shellac flakes, I can fill the cup up with the stuff, heat the key over a flame and drop the pad into the goo, then fit it on the flute while it is still soft. It hardens in about a minute.

Hey Jon,

Here's a twist on the pad floating method. I melt a bit of shellac onto the cup, allow it to cool and mount the key with the pad in place. I then use a soldering iron, one that's never been used for actual soldering of course, to heat the back of the cup thus melting the shellac and floating the pad in place. No rush, no open flame, very simple.

Kevin

I wonder how those new magnetic induction soldering irons would work? I'm tempted...

I haven't had much luck with those things. I haven't tryed it on pad replacement, but I have found they don't work good saldering... The tip also breaks easily. A solder station with temp. control would be the best, as James warns, the solder iron can get pretty hot.

[Loren]

Folks, be careful with the soldering iron / gun.

An open flame is a relatively cool heat, and not likely to damage anything.

The heat from a soldering iron can get quite intense and may not heat the key cup evenly (unless perhaps you flux it first).

I'm not saying that's it's not a good idea...but I would use a lot of caution.

--James

Which is why I suggested Micro in the first place, as any heat has the potential to cause problems, depending on the situation and one's experience level.


Loren