Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

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Re: Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

Post by csoroz »

kmag wrote:As to the short F roller if you go to Peter Noy's website and click on the short F roller option it will show you a photo. My roller is a little longer however but still the same concept.
Short F roller

Interesting. I didn't know about this.
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Re: Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

Post by an seanduine »

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Re: Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

Post by woodfluter »

Really, there is no right answer based on what you've provided us.
A good flute will serve you for a lifetime and you can pass it along to other lifetimes.
I didn't know what keys I'd need when I started on wooden flute.
So didn't know the answer myself.

Tonight we previewed some waltzes for an upcoming gig.
I used all six keys on my Olwell, a lot.
I have six on my McGee too.

Yes, I could function without the long C, but no way would I want to now.
I use that and cross-fingering about equally. Depending.

And if I had to choose, I'd go with the short F. And yes, surely angled touch for that.
But I'm not Nicholson, who turned his RH middle section way far forward
...and so probably couldn't reach the long F touch anyway.
So I appreciate having both. He probably never played Julia Delaney.

Eb is essential to some of the tunes I often do.
Also helps tune other notes. If that matters.

With much hesitance...here's what I'd say.
If you know for sure you are only going to play Irish tunes in certain keys and that's all, forever.
Or if you aren't investing much in the instrument anyway.
Go for the short F.
Otherwise, go for six keys. It won't limit you and you can re-sell it for more later if it comes to that.
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Re: Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

Post by dunnp »

I am genuinely curious. Why did makers not switch to the long F (I'm thinking French five key makers, cheaper models from American and English makers) if the long F is the only F one needs.

Is it tradition?
I view the long F as a luxury, nice to have but not essential.
It would be the last key I would have.

Most ordering a five key would leave it off and have c.

My first keyed flute the long f leaked, so I just taped it. Since I always avoid the long f unless it really helps a phrase, despite having all keys working. It is the key I use least.
For me it's just habit.
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Re: Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

Post by Gordon »

dunnp wrote:Most ordering a five key would leave it off and have c.

.
Most, I think, would omit the C. Or, at least, I would - maybe some makers will chime in on this, regarding 5-key orders. To me, the long F is extremely useful, as already mentioned, when descending to D, where the short F can be a bit clumsy. The C, on the other hand, is, IMO, the least necessary - use it if you have it, but necessary? Not really.
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Re: Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

Post by MTGuru »

Isn't it simply a matter of personal technical habit? I have a friend who almost always plays keyed C-nats in preference to cross-fingering in any tune. He would view the lack of a C key accordingly, as precluding his preferred personal technique.
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Re: Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

Post by dunnp »

Every five keyed flute I've seen ( French antiques, Egans famous Olwell, June
Mcormacks Olwell, numerous Sam Murray flutes,) omits the long F.

I have seen a few Murray's with C, G#, and short or long F.

I use all eight keys, just saying if for some reason I had to I would omit long f then long c in that order.

They are nice to have but there are work arounds a and Nicholson being a virtuoso played much more difficult pieces than Julia Delaney.

I'd imagine they were viewed as aides but not necessities. Take for instance six keyed Potters etc with foot keys but without long F and c.

I agree Mt my preference is habit based.

By the way you see uilleann chanters with one or the other. I have never seen one with both. They are called ring or pinky in that sphere.

But the question still remains if long f is the only f key anyone could ever need why is this not evidenced in historical flutes?
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Re: Which F key to choose (short or long) for new wooden flute.

Post by woodfluter »

dunnp wrote: They are nice to have but there are work arounds a and Nicholson being a virtuoso played much more difficult pieces than Julia Delaney.
Oh yes, of course. My point was, I really cannot see how anyone, despite virtuosity, could play repeated and very rapid transitions betweeen D and Fnat with the short F. If you're a virtuoso you could doubtless find creative workarounds, but I don't see how you'd physically do some of this well. You can for example roll your RH middle finger inward and leak enough to make an F, but even fast it doesn't sound the same. Maybe there's some other ways and I'd love to see them.
dunnp wrote: But the question still remains if long f is the only f key anyone could ever need why is this not evidenced in historical flutes?
Yeah. Know what you mean. Maybe sort of depends on the individual. My reach is decent but my hands are small for my size, and my little finger short. So unless I crank my hand uncomfortably, I have trouble reaching the long F touch dependably on the Olwell. I can and do use it, but it gets quite tiring and sometimes I catch it by the fingernail. The touch on the McGee is way easier to reach. But still, it gets awkward and tiring for me to do, say, many A or B to Fnat transitions with the long F. But it's effortless with the short F. For someone else, might be a whole different story. Despite the advantages of long-F, I'd always choose the short if it came to that.
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