"Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by Feadoggie »

fearfeasog wrote:What "release agent" do you use in the tube for the molding, and is there a brand of epoxy you like and works well that you'd care to share the brand name of?
I did not use an epoxy resin. My oldest son was still living at home when I started casting the plugs. He designed and made miniature figures for board game competitions at the time. He had polyester resin on hand. So that's what I used. It is available here in the US in many craft and hobby shops (like Michael's). They sell it in various quantities. I used a variety of release agents over time. I liked using car wax best. It left a smooth surface inside the mold and didn't need a lot to work. You can also buy complete casting kits at the craft shops if you like. I used what we had on hand.

The Polyester material takes a while to cure. I would fill a set of molds and let them cure for a week or more before popping them out. They could still be tacky after that time period if I did not get the catalyst mixed right. So expect some trial and error. You can probably shorten the curing time by adding more catalyst. So just read the instruction materials that come with the resin. The resin gives off vapors. You will want to work in a ventilated area or wear appropriate safety gear.

Have fun.

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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by highwood »

i need a miter box.
really you need a lathe :thumbsup:
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by fearfeasog »

highwood wrote:
i need a miter box.
really you need a lathe :thumbsup:
I need both! :love:
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by Feadoggie »

fearfeasog wrote:I need both!
:lol: :lol: :lol: Ah, I see you are approaching the slippery slope and you're in danger of losing your traction. Step carefully.

Once you start down the path of tool acquisition it is very hard to bring it to a halt. More power!

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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by Tommy »

fearfeasog wrote:
highwood wrote:
i need a miter box.
really you need a lathe :thumbsup:
I need both! :love:
And the lathe accessories...................
''Whistles of Wood'', cpvc and brass. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=69086
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by ecohawk »

Then tapered bore spoon drills.... :o
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by jemtheflute »

One of the biggest improvements you can fairly easily make to Guido's basic design, IMO, is to extend the "cap" of the windway downtube - make it about twice as long and cut a slot into it from the down-tube edge to match your windway/window width in the main tube. It makes part preparation and assembly a little trickier and gives you more careful tidying up in a critical area to do, but the deepening of the walls of the ramp slot helps with the focus/channelling of the air-jet and gives both more power/responsiveness and less hiss. I'm away from home and can't post pictures at present, sorry.
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by Feadoggie »

Yep. Your right, Jem. I think we covered that in the thread I linked to in my first response above.

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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by Tunborough »

jemtheflute wrote:the deepening of the walls of the ramp slot helps with the focus/channelling of the air-jet and gives both more power/responsiveness and less hiss.
Not to mention the practical matter of giving more cap length around the back side of the whistle to hold the cap on. With shorter windways, or shallower angles on the beak/mouthpiece, this extra length can prove essential.
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by fearfeasog »

Tunborough wrote:
jemtheflute wrote:the deepening of the walls of the ramp slot helps with the focus/channelling of the air-jet and gives both more power/responsiveness and less hiss.
Not to mention the practical matter of giving more cap length around the back side of the whistle to hold the cap on. With shorter windways, or shallower angles on the beak/mouthpiece, this extra length can prove essential.
I had a hell of a time getting the cap on both the ones I've made so far. If anyone has any tips for doing that... (besides cutting out extra material, which is what I did) warm them up maybe? I dunno.
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by Thomas-Hastay »

A picture is worth a thousand words. here are 2 diagrams that may help. I recommend that you blunt not only the leading edge of the labium lip, but also the exit lips of the windway. You can see this in every Recorder voicing design. I greatly reduces turbulence in the window area and improves resonance.

http://www.organstops.org/f/FlautoDAmore2.gif

Main Illustrations site:
http://www.organstops.org/_apps/Illustrations.html
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by Tunborough »

fearfeasog wrote:I had a hell of a time getting the cap on both the ones I've made so far. If anyone has any tips for doing that...
I use a large set of needle-nose pliers as a spreader, with the plier nose inside the cap and pushing out, and hold the cap in very hot water. When it is hot, I use both hands on the pliers to pry the cap open. Then I use one hand to hold the pliers and the other hand to hold the body, and push the cap on the body. Let the cap cool on the body. It isn't easy the first time you put the cap on, but it gets easier after that.
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by jemtheflute »

Hot air gun (paint stripper) works wonders on PVC - with due care and caution, of course - and is repeatable as long as you don't actually singe/bake the plastic. A hair-dryer on a high setting might work, though less well. However, you are likely to lose the springiness which holds the "cap" section onto the main tube. You can mould it to a nice neat fit while still warm, but may then need to hold it in place with a cable tie while making adjustments and to glue it in place once all parameters are finalised. It is possible to heat it, mould it to a neat fit in place on the tube, then reheat it very carefully off the tube again and judiciously pinch it in a bit or re-mould it over a very slightly smaller mandrel to make it a spring fit again - but it will still need gluing or pinning once you're happy with everything..
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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by Feadoggie »

fearfeasog wrote:I had a hell of a time getting the cap on both the ones I've made so far. If anyone has any tips for doing that...
Good suggestion so far. Heating does, as Jem describes, reduce the springiness of the plastic tubing. And, as Tunborough suggests, pliers can be used as spreaders to open the stubborn tubing a bit. And I like that approach personally.

Needle nose pliers with the bent nose jaws can be useful in that regard. Still you have to operate them backwards to do the job.

The best tool I've found is a pair a ring pliers. These are designed to spread c-rings and springs. So they are purpose made for the job. They are also sometimes called reverse pliers. They don't have to be expensive either, some are stamped metal and quite inexpensive. The type used for c-rings sometimes have two pins that would engage holes in the c-ring. You can drill two holes in the plastic tubing and those pliers will very positively engage the tube to spread it out for you. http://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring- ... -3316.html

A miniature bar clamp could also be modified with pins or such to act as a spreader. Also very cheap.

Hope that helps.

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Re: "Low Tech" Whistle question (troubleshooting)

Post by fearfeasog »

Thanks, all. great tips. I may get some casting resin from Michael's this week, as well.
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