Chiff and Fipple Forums

Hi Bob, This very subject is one that rattles around my head all the time. Probably to the point that the only time I ever post, it's about the staples rate of taper.... Anyway, I would suggest you narrow down some of the things that you think affect the reed aperture pre-scrape. Something along the...

Drills have sold, thank you.

Thanks Ben & Lorenzo for the plugs!

Hello,

I have, for sale, 3 gun drills, specifically purchased for pipemaking. These are now surplus to my requirements. If you are interested and would like further details please email me at alan(at)reedshaman.co.uk

Thanks.

I have it in my mind that Bill Whelan wrote it?

Hello. It's a shot in the dark without your reed measurements, but...what I reckon you could try, is to scrape the centre of the V more and thin the lips to see if this brings the Cnat in? It's likely you'll trash the reed in the process, but if this does bring you luck, then you can try altering th...

Hope it helps... And apologies, that should have read 'run it down 15mm' not 5mm.... though it never harms to mix it a bit, I guess you can achieve a result with the small numbers. Maybe just gouge a bit deeper if you do? ...

The most efficient way to enlarge the volume of the reed, is to alter the cavity above the staple eye. Do this by having a wider shoulder area (or shorter tail, depending which way you look at it), or by introducing a cavity in the slip above the eye. This is akin to the '2nd gouge' that is often us...

That link led me to this http://www.emermayock.com/ wherein info about Emer Mayock, Mick O'Brien and Aoife ni Bhriain are recording tunes from the Goodman transcripts. Another reason to be cheerful!

Hello, I think the 30mm staple eye > reed lips is a fairly good starting point and adjust to suit, but if you reduce the length of the slip to about 100mm and lengthen the staple to between 50 - 52mm, then try working as staple > tail insertion depth starting at 18 - 20mm and adjust to suit, this wa...

Hello, I don't know whether this might help, but I find that the narrower measurement on the staple blank has a big effect on back D response and tuning. It tends to go hand in hand with the reed head width. With tubing staples, it's difficult to control the size/shape of the eye, as the narrowness ...

Hope this gives an idea. It's just an Ashley Iles (#4?) cannelled gouge that has been ground to add curvature to the 'blade' face. Sorry for lack of real technical terms. I'm sure you can use wider/different gauge gouges. I think sharpening is just common sense? I use a waterstone for this gouge and...

Hello, I use a gouge (#4, if I remember correctly, cannelled not incannell and the 'blade' area has been ground to give a better cutting angle, maybe a picture would be better than my explanation?) to set the preliminary scrape. I think this is better than using a chisel, as the chisel can leave a w...

When the reed is opened, lets say by squeezing, indeed the back d does get sharper and stronger. Here lies the caveat and it's the "one thing comes into focus, another goes wayward." I had a chat with Sam L recently about this matter. Unfortunately, the opening of the reed definitely shar...

In keeping with Erics comment about often being unable to hear the full range of the chanter. I think playing sequences of notes that are often troublesome is a good idea. e.g jumping high a to back d, high g to back d, c# to back d etc., (and vice versa) should give and indication of the strength o...

If you have to ask, it probably is/isn't(ain't)/was/wasn't/will/won't/did/didn't/can/can't/should/shouldn't/shan't.